InterviewSpoke 03

The search for the perfect food: science and nutrition at the service of citizens

In this interview, Prof. Maria De Angelis (Spoke 3, OnFoods) discusses how science and microbiology can drive healthier, more effective nutrition for all.

Stefania Divertito

Journalist and Press Officer

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Published: May 23, 2025
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Between science, technology and medicine, the topic of nutrition is grafted. The challenge is to increasingly combine nutrition with the ability to nourish in a healthy and effective way. 

This is the goal of OnFoods' Spoke 3, which has Professor Maria De Angelis as its contact person. 

Full professor of agricultural, food, and environmental microbiology at the University of Bari "Aldo Moro", she is the director of the Department of Soil, Plant and Food Sciences.


Safety, innovation and food: how closely can these three words go together? 

They must absolutely go hand in hand—food is not just nourishment: it can be considered a form of medicine for preventing the onset of chronic diseases. Moreover, we know that eating disorders and foodborne illnesses are among the leading causes of death in industrialized countries. This is why food safety is crucial in addressing the challenges of our time. 
 

Spoke 3 places technological innovation at the center of this trio of elements by giving it a focal role. How is this journey progressing?

I would say well, particularly with Spoke 3, which—through the use of new technologies—is working on developing innovative analytical methods to ensure the quality and hygienic safety of food, whether traditional products or novel foods. The latter are attracting increasing market interest, with the prospect of playing an increasingly central role. The refinement of these methods and the growing amount of available data also allow us to support EFSA, the European Food Safety Authority, in its decision-making processes and in evaluating the limits of both European and Italian regulations. 


Working so much on data poses new challenges related to the ability to process and then analyse the resulting wealth of information that you get.

Exactly—the growing amount of data we collect presents significant challenges. This is precisely what Spoke 3 focuses on: integrating diverse skill sets and coordinating them effectively. Our work is built on collaboration among microbiologists, molecular biologists, analytical chemists, and bioinformaticians. Each of us brings a unique perspective, and our goal is to bring them together to tackle increasingly complex problems.

A multidisciplinary approach is essential, especially when it comes to food safety. The challenges we face are too intricate and multifaceted to be solved by a single discipline. Only by combining the knowledge of experts from different fields can we adequately respond to the questions and issues that arise. The synergy among our diverse expertise is the key to our success.


What about from the consumer's point of view? How can I, the consumer, feel protected within such a complex process?

According to Italian regulations, a food product can only be marketed if it does not pose any health risks. Otherwise, it cannot be sold. This is the basic premise of the food safety system. Additionally, what we do in the research of Spoke 3 is assess all risks, including emerging and re-emerging ones, which could, for example, come from novel foods or little-known toxic substances. These hazards can be present at any stage of the production chain, starting from primary production and continuing through processing, transport, and food storage. This is why collaboration with other research areas of the Onfoods project is essential.

In particular, Spoke 2 aims to enhance food waste, for instance, by using it to produce new ingredients or food additives. In this case, a new and detailed risk assessment is necessary, considering the technologies or biotechnologies used for their valorization, always with the goal of ensuring hygienic and health quality. We are talking about risks, and thus probabilities, while keeping in mind the fundamental assumption that, in principle, all foods on the market are safe, as the analytical data collected on foods are confirming.


The field of food safety is often in the news, and in your research you have found Pfas in tuna and blue crab. How much more attention are these findings likely to receive given the social alarm there is with respect to certain substances? 

This is a topic that is generating a lot of attention, especially because PFAS, known as "perfluoroalkyl substances," are associated with serious public health concerns. These substances are highly persistent in the environment and in our bodies, meaning they can accumulate over time and have harmful effects.

When we detect PFAS in foods such as tuna and blue crab, it naturally raises a red flag. Consumers are increasingly informed and sensitive about the quality of the foods they consume, which puts more pressure on regulatory bodies, food companies, and researchers.

Our research highlights the presence of these substances at levels that, while sometimes below legal limits, still warrant further investigation. We have chosen to publish the data immediately with the utmost transparency and clarity. It is essential to provide clear information about the results of our analyses, indicating the regulatory limits, when applicable, and what we actually find. This informational strategy is crucial for the consumer and, above all, for a sensitive sector like food safety, which is often under scrutiny. Transparency helps to properly inform and reduce any unfounded panic, allowing consumers to make informed decisions.
 

Is there a factor of accumulation to keep in mind? 

Yes, absolutely. When we detect a substance like PFAS in multiple food items, there’s a risk that, over time, it could accumulate in our bodies, increasing the total dose we’re exposed to. In cases like this, it’s crucial that both the company and we, as representatives of the scientific research community, pay due attention to the potential risk involved.

The effect of accumulation is one of the main focus areas in many studies because multi-exposure to certain substances can lead to exceeding the daily safety thresholds. This aspect is at the core of our analyses and recommendations, as it’s essential to properly assess the long-term risk to consumer health. 


OnFoods has the time limit offered by the funding process related to the NRP. The timeframe for this research has the last few scheduled months ahead of it. Is this a sufficient time limit? Will it be enough?

The characteristic of these research projects, born within the framework of the PNRR, is to connect the scientific world with business and ensure that there are tangible and concrete outcomes in the business sector.

The goal was to develop prototypes that could be ready for market introduction. It’s clear that we didn’t start from scratch, but rather from pathways that, in some cases, were already outlined, even advanced, and well-defined. Of course, there was the fine-tuning of the method, which was essential for optimizing the work. But, in fact, we already had all the necessary expertise to proceed with the project, working in the right direction from the very beginning.


How does Spoke 3 address the issue of interindividual differences and thus contribute to the personalized nutrition revolution?

Our multidisciplinary approach is one of the key aspects that adds richness and complexity to the research we conduct. This approach has allowed us to work effectively with specific population groups. For example, we have carried out studies focusing on children, infants, and the elderly.

One line of research we have dedicated significant attention to concerns gluten-free foods, particularly those suitable for children, and the digestibility of proteins. Over the past two and a half, almost three years, we have focused not so much on the general population, but on specific groups, aiming to address the particular needs of these populations. 


What is one segment that you find particularly challenging? 

Well, one of the biggest challenges is certainly working with the gluten-free world. I have always worked with children with celiac disease, as well as adults with the same condition. I started working on these topics in 1999, so I’ve had the opportunity to deepen my understanding of the specific issues related to this condition over time, always with the goal of improving the quality of life for those affected by it. 


What did you find most challenging about this type of dedicated nutrition for people with celiac disease?

One of the most stimulating questions we asked ourselves was: why does an adult develop celiac disease? The answer involves a genetic predisposition combined with environmental trigger factors. But when does the limit get crossed that transforms an individual’s digestive capacity? Delving into this aspect has always been both stimulating and interesting for me. Additionally, there are social implications related to certain specific populations.

We have observed, in some African populations, a subgroup of children developing celiac disease, which led to discomfort associated with the consumption of gluten-containing products, such as most of the staple foods provided by humanitarian aid. My background as a food biotechnologist prompted me to ask questions about these issues, which triggered red flags.

This is how we started studying gluten-free foods, aiming to make them not only safe but also optimal from a nutritional and functional perspective. The best of these foods can support the nutrition of children, especially in the first two years after diagnosis, a period during which many of them may experience intestinal problems, sometimes quite severe.

To improve the aspects mentioned above, we focused on fiber, making sure it was optimal and specific for these foods. We’ve registered many patents, one of the most important being a process that allows gluten in wheat to be hydrolyzed so that it can be consumed even by those with celiac disease.


Is it like inerting it? 

Exactly: with hydrolysis, gluten is removed, but the amino acids are preserved. This is an important aspect, especially for an adult who, let's say, after 30 years discovers that they can no longer eat bread, pasta, or pizza. With hydrolyzed flour, they can continue to prepare and consume these foods in a gluten-free version.
 

I imagine the industrial world is very interested in that aspect.

Of course, and for a period, this bread was actually marketed. However, later on, the company that had acquired the patent stopped producing it. At that point, the academic world no longer had any means of intervention—it raised its hands.

 
What concrete strategies are being developed to reduce risks along the food chain, from production to consumption? 

The strategies to reduce risks along the food chain are truly complex and involve every stage of the process, from production to the table. Each of these stages requires a targeted approach to ensure that food is safe and of high quality. One of the most important strategies is the adoption of HACCP systems, which help identify and control critical control points, such as microbiological or chemical contamination.

In this context, labeling and traceability are essential, allowing us to trace the origin of every product in case of safety issues. However, consumer awareness is also crucial: what happens if food is left out of the fridge for hours? What if the cold chain is interrupted during commercial transport? Anyone purchasing a food product must ensure they can maintain the proper temperature until consumption, protect it, and store it correctly.

In this sense, it’s important to educate consumers on proper storage, preparation, and label reading. Finally, international regulations set safety limits, and health authorities conduct inspections to ensure compliance with standards. In summary, food safety relies on the collaboration of all involved parties and constant oversight.


Even when the food ends up in one's refrigerator where storage is often not done with all the dictates of sanitary safety regulations. 

That's true, but in reality, it concerns me less than other aspects. At home, generally, food doesn’t stay for long. The packaging issue is more prominent in the supply chain, where the times for storage, transportation, and handling can be much longer, which is why research is so crucial. The goal is to produce better packaging materials, not only more aesthetically appealing but, most importantly, more effective at preserving the freshness and safety of the food.

Additionally, we need to ask ourselves what that type of packaging is transferring into the food. This is another important point of attention when we talk about food safety. 


The connection to the topic of plastics, nano- and microplastics, comes naturally. Viewed from this perspective, all food seems a bit of a world of challenges. Even a little scary, if you will.

No, no, there’s no need to be afraid because every day we work to improve processes to preserve food better while spending less, and this too is part of sustainability. In fact, I believe that Italy is one of the safest countries in the world when it comes to food safety. Innovation is important, but not because what we have isn't good enough; it’s because we need to respond to new challenges, such as the increase in population, the changing patterns of consumption, and the evolving needs of families.

 
From a strictly food safety management perspective, what tools are being developed to detect toxins, allergens and pathogens in a timely manner? Is artificial intelligence our ally in this regard?

Absolutely, artificial intelligence can be a valuable ally, although we are still at the dawn of exploring this world. However, to apply AI effectively, we need to gather a lot more data. AI uses predictive methods that, at this stage, require a significant volume of information to be truly effective. The more data we have, the more accurate and reliable the predictions can become, which is crucial for making informed decisions, especially in areas like food safety and quality control.


In December 2026, the three-year project will end. What do you envision? 

Certainly, each of us is also working on other projects, so research doesn't stop—and it can't. I hope there will be a continuation of the PNRR, as it is an incredibly useful tool, especially in the South. I wouldn’t want to see this wonderful complexity lost, which is the result of the work of a large number of researchers and the richness of multidisciplinary approaches that, at the same time, bridge the gap between dissemination and collaboration with businesses. The coming months will be crucial, but our hope is that we can continue along this path, to build on the results we’ve achieved and seize new opportunities. 

Stefania Divertito

Journalist and Press Officer

This blog post is related to

Spoke 03

Food safety of traditional and novel foods

Promoting a safe food innovation

Lead organisationUniBa

Spoke leaderMaria De Angelis

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